Princess Cruises, Crown Princess

Okay, this was only my second cruise, but the accessibility level was just about equal to my previous trip on the Norwegian Jewel, so I'm starting to suspect that they're all pretty similar.  Again, the stateroom was so small that I was able to walk around without a walker by grabbing onto furniture, which gave me a little "intimations of normality" thrill.  We did not ask for a handicapped accessible room, but I understand that they are bigger, which, ironically, would have made things more difficult for me.  All showers have grab bars, and so do the public restrooms, handicapped and non-handicapped, which are located all throughout the ship.  As far as disembarkation to ports, which was a problem on my last cruise, I did not even try getting on the tender to their private island, which they said was accessible only for handicapped passengers who could get up out of their wheelchairs; after my frightening experience being borne above the stairway on the Norwegian Jewel.  They assured us that there wouldn't be a problem with accessibility at the ports where the ship could dock, but I don't know, their ramp had a series of speed bumps, I guess to prevent runaway wheelchairs from careering down.  It worked pretty well on the way down, but on the return trip, wouldn't you know it, the cruise employees pretty much had to lift me and my wheelchair to get me up the ramp.  Which was, again, scary and also their grunting was a blow to my ego, but it's their own fault for feeding me so much delicious food and then trying to hoist me up.

Norwegian Cruise Line, Norwegian Jewel

In general, cruising is a great choice for handicapped travelers.  Everything on the ship is uber-accessible, all the showers have grab bars and there are clean handicapped-accessible bathrooms everywhere.  On the first day, before you leave port, they have what they call a "fire drill" where all passengers have to report to a certain spot, and I'm pretty sure it's just so staff can keep track of who would need special assistance in an emergency if the elevators stopped working, which is reassuring.  If you are unable to transfer out of a wheelchair and walk a few steps you can get a handicapped-accessible stateroom, but I found the regular stateroom even better, because it was so small, there was always something to hold onto.

My trip on the Norwegian Jewel was my first cruise, and I was not brave enough to try the land excursions (although I did get off the ship and look around the ports), but they give you a list of which ones are possible for handicapped travelers.  Be careful about what they consider "possible," though.  At one port (Belize, I think), passengers had to take a tender (a much smaller passenger ship) between the cruise ship and land.  When we asked about accessibility, staff said there were stairs between the ship and the tender, but promised in a vague way that they would "help me" get down them.  Turns out what they meant was that two crew members lifted the wheelchair with me in it, a la a Jewish wedding but maybe not quite so high, and with much grunting and puffing, carried me down the stairs.  If I had known what they meant by "help," I think I would have just skipped it, because it was very scary, plus an ego buster to be loaded onto a ship like heavy cargo. But, I survived and lived to tell about it.  And, the main thing, I ate three gourmet meals a day and spent the winter solstice soaking up the Caribbean sun, which is the beautiful thing about a cruise vacation.

Mee Noodle Shop, 795 9th Avenue (SW corner of 53rd), New York City

Picture this: a family of four wakes up in a Detroit suburb, loads up the minivan, drives the 600 miles through Ohio, Pennsylvania and the George Washington Bridge, and checks into a Manhattan hotel, all for a food craving.  True story.  Of course, NYC has other attractions, but the curry soup at Mee Noodle Shop is the siren song that calls to my husband, a call that he succumbs to about once a year.

Now picture the family walking up to Mee Noodle Shop (well, three walking, one rolling) for a late dinner.  Who would have thought the hardest part of the trip would be the last 0.001%?  True again, because you have to climb up two steps to enter the restaurant. No railing, no grab bar, just three scared family members trying to keep you from falling.  So far I've always managed it, but it's getting scary.  Once you're inside, if you can walk a little holding on to chairs and tables, you'll be all right, because the place is so tiny there's always something to grab.  If you have a lightweight wheelchair that someone can carry in, you still might have a hard time getting around because it's so cramped, but it might be useful if you need to use the bathroom, which is on the main floor.  In summary, good food, but a challenge for the disabled.

Mario's Restaurant, 4222 2nd Avenue Detroit

A newcomer in comparison to Roma Cafe, Mario's has only been in operation since 1948, but the atmosphere in this restaurant, at least to me, is more elegantly old-fashioned. As soon as you sit down a waiter in a tux brings a relish tray with a bunch of old-school appetizers (cottage cheese, olives) plus one cold shrimp per person, and later prepares your salad tableside in a ritual apparently handed down for generations.
But  we're here to talk about handicapped accessibility, which, I'm happy to say, is very good, especially for such an old building.  The main floor is a few feet above street level, but there is a ramp instead of stairs at the entrance.  Bathrooms are on the main floor.  All in all, an easy experience for a wheelchair user and proof that a building doesn't have to be new to be accessible. 

Roma Cafe, 3401 Riopelle, Detroit

Roma Cafe bills itself as "Detroit's oldest Italian restaurant."  Opened in 1890 and located in the Eastern Market, it is third-generation family-owned and as far from an Olive Garden as you can get.  It was also my nephew's choice for his college graduation party, but his mother had to veto the idea in consideration of my difficulty with the place.  For one thing, there is a good 3-5 inch step-up at the entrance, probably from the settling that has occurred since the building was constructed 100 years prior to the Americans with Disabilities Act.  Also, the Ladies' Room is located on the second floor, up a stairway.  The last time I was there, the host offered to clear out the Men's Room, which is on the first floor, and stand guard so I could use it if necessary, so I guess technically they are providing a handicapped-accessible bathroom for everyone, but the "Jerry's Kids" quotient (degree to which the handicapped person is put on display and general bfd-level of the accommodation) is high enough to put it on my list of restaurants to avoid.

Andiamo, 676 Telegraph Road, Bloomfield Township, MI

This establishment, remembered by locals as the place where Jimmy Hoffa went to meet a few people for lunch on that fateful day in 1975, has changed hands since then to become part of the local Italian restaurant chain Andiamo.  Getting in is not a problem for handicapped patrons, as the attentive valet parking staff is there to unfold your walker or wheelchair and/or hold the door open.  Likewise, the main floor seating is completely handicapped accessible.  The only problem is access to the lower level, which houses the banquet rooms and the bathrooms.  It's not completely inaccessible, as there is an elevator, but it's the slowest, tiniest elevator you'll ever see in your life.  Big enough to fit one wheelchair and one (slender) person pushing it, it takes what seems like over a minute to travel the12 feet or so between floors.  Plus, its operation is kind of complicated, with the entrance and exit doors on opposite sides, and two sets of doors (one hinged, one accordion-fold), with printed instructions on the wall.  So if grandma has any cognitive or vision deficits in addition to the mobility problem, don't just slide her into the elevator and assume you'll see her downstairs.  Once I went to a program for people with MS in the lower-level banquet room.  As people straggled in there wasn't much problem with elevator access, but when the program was over and many of the attendees needed the elevator up, the line was so long I took my chances and hauled myself up the stairs on foot rather than wait for all those people to do the slow ride, one at a time, back to the main floor.

Eugene O'Neill Theater, 230 W. 49th Street, NYC

This theater, built in 1926 and currently showing the wildly popular "Book of Mormon," has a completely handicapped-accessible main floor, with zero steps from sidewalk to stage.  The mezzanine and lower level are non-accessible, unfortunately, because the only restrooms are in the lower level.  However, unlike some other theaters, not to mention any names, but if you added the letter "c" you'd get an Austrian composer who left a symphony unfinished, their alternative is actually practical.  When we were lucky enough to see "Book of Mormon" last April, we followed the instructions to go to the hotel just adjacent to the theater (on the same side of the street, ahem), and took the elevator to the second level to use the restroom.  It was probably easier and faster than using the crowded facilities in the lower level of the theater, making it one of those rare occasions when it pays to be handicapped.  Thank you, Eugene O'Neill Theater, I had a great time.

Shubert Theatre, 225 W 44th St, NY, NY

If one experience in my life inspired me to advocate for the rights of the disabled, it was my trip to the Shubert Theatre in 2005.  At the time, I was still walking rather than riding a wheelchair, but stairs were a challenge, and I looked for the handicapped facilities wherever I went.  Imagine my shock when I read the sign at the Shubert saying that the handicapped accessible bathrooms are located ACROSS THE STREET at the iconic theater-district restaurant Sardi's.  Considering that in order to cross safely at a crosswalk (and that's important, because most handicapped people can't exactly dart across the street), you have to walk the half block to either 7th or 8th Avenue, then the half block on the other side, go into Sardi's, inform the host that you're only there to use the bathroom, take an elevator, use the facilities, then repeat the whole process in reverse, it seems to me that the Shubert people must know their plan is impossible to accomplish during a 15-minute intermission, but are passive-aggressively complying with the letter of the law (definitely not the spirit).  The whole theatre looks a little shabby, and I'm guessing they can't renovate, because if they did, they'd have to come into ADA compliance and become completely handicapped accessible.  I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that no show I really want to see ever plays there.

Oh, I got so involved with the bathroom situation I forgot to mention the seating.  The orchestra section is handicapped accessible, there is a special wheelchair section,  the mezzanine and balcony can only be reached by climbing (a lot of) steps.  So, if you were blessed with a three-hour bladder, you may be able to enjoy a show at this theater on the main floor.

Minskoff Theatre, 1515 Broadway, NYC

Oy, what a mish-mash of good and bad accessibility.  Opened in 1973, it seems too modern to be inaccessible, but we have to remember that the Americans with Disabilities Act didn't become law until 1990. While non-disabled patrons take the escalator or stairs to the orchestra level, there is an elevator for wheelchair users.  So far so good.  But, once they get there, wheelchair users are consigned to the very back row unless they can transfer out of the chair and walk down steps that lead to every other seat in the place.  Hello, what if I'm a disabled person who doesn't want the worst seats in the theater?

On the bright side, bathrooms are completely handicapped-accessible, and the staff control access to the elevator, but that's both good and bad.  Before they allow the general public entry to the theater, the staff pick out the patrons in wheelchairs and herd them into the elevator, which imparts kind of a "Jerry's Kids" vibe of being on display.  I suppose I should be grateful that they take their job so seriously, but it messes with my self-image that I'm cool and sophisticated in spite of needing a wheelchair to go to a Broadway show.

Huron Valley Sinai Hospital, Commerce Township, MI

I've heard that the ambulance drivers call this place "Happy Valley" because everyone there is so nice.  I've never been an inpatient there, but it's where I usually have my medical tests, and it is consistently a happy and easy accessibility experience.  Pull up to Valet Parking and the greeter is there with a wheelchair and a smile.  If your destination is close to the entrance, they'll just take you there immediately, but if not, they'll get assistance or let you use one of their motorized wheelchairs.  Once you're done with your appointment, a quick call summons return transportation.  None of this waiting around for up to an hour for someone to take you back, and absolutely no put-upon looks. Plus, in my experience, the hospital personnel have taken responsibility for the whole transportation issue, so I can just relax and not worry about getting around.

Fox Theater, Detroit

Like the Detroit Opera House, this beautiful theater was built in the 1920's, and the pluses and minuses are the same. The main floor is completely handicapped accessible, with level floor between the outside sidewalk and the seats, but again there is a shortage of handicapped accessible bathrooms.  Let's do the math: the theater seats 5000, there are 2 accessible bathrooms, disabled make up 12% of the population, that makes 1 bathroom for every 300 disabled theatergoers.  No wonder I missed the beginning of the second act of the last show I saw there.

Starbuck's, Everywhere, USA and many locations internationally

Just a great big thank you to Starbuck's, whose ubiquity and bathrooms make it possible for me to travel in cities.  Don't worry, I never use the bathroom without buying something, because I don't want to be a mooch, and I find those apple, cheese and nut snacks just perfect for tiding me over until my next meal.  (I'd love a Caramel Macchiato, but that would be counter-productive.)

Update:  Recent reports (November, 2011) have sprung up suggesting that Starbuck's is closing its restrooms to the public, citing cost and the inability of employees to take a quick bathroom break because of the lines at the restrooms..  Does that mean I will never again visit NYC unless I can afford to rent a bathroom-equipped limo to ferry me around?

I can relax.  The story: a few renegade baristas, fed up with what they saw as abuse of their stores' facilities, posted "Employees Only" signs on the bathroom doors of a few NYC locations, but it was not an official policy of the Starbucks management, which has reaffirmed that they don't plan to restrict public use of their restrooms. (New York Times, 11-22-11, "Baristas Lock Restrooms, But the Revolt Doesn't Last.")

Power Center for the Performing Arts, 121 Fletcher Street, Ann Arbor, MI

With all its concrete-and-glass modernity, you'd expect a completely handicapped-accessible facility, but the construction preceded the Americans with Disabilities Act by 19 years.  The theater, modeled after the "Greek theatre at Epidarus," according to their website, features aisles that are essentially long stairways that descend from the lobby level to the stage. Thanks a lot, ancient Greeks. The result is a facility with wheelchair access only in the back row of the main floor.  I'm still at the stage where I can get out of the wheelchair, hold on to the railings (which are sturdy and which run the length of the aisles), and walk to a better seat in the front, but some wheelchair users will be stuck in the back row.  The balcony is completely inaccessible to wheelchair users, as the elevator, strangely, only runs between the parking/box office level and the lobby level.  The multi-stall bathrooms in the lower level are likewise inaccessible, but there are three completely handicapped-accessible bathrooms on the main floor.  Not enough, if the theater is filled anywhere near full capacity, but better than nothing.

Detroit Opera House, 1526 Broadway, Detroit, MI

The Detroit Opera House makes me cry.  Built in Detroit's heyday in 1922, the ornate decoration on just about every surface is breathtaking.  The Michigan Opera Theater's performances are first-rate, and the main floor is completely handicapped accessible.  So close to total opera utopia...but they have a bathroom problem.  There is exactly one toilet on the main floor, located in the Cadillac Cafe.  As you can imagine, there is no chance of getting to the front of that line during intermission.  There is a large handicapped-accessible bathroom on what they call the third floor (although it is actually more like the sixth, for some reason), but only one tiny little elevator to transport the thousands of opera-goers who take the elevator to their seats as well as to the bathroom.  Another large bathroom in the basement can be reached only by a long staircase.

A spokesman for the theater explained to me that when the theater was built 90 years ago, it only had 12 toilets, which gives me great admiration for our ancestors' bladder capacity, because I don't think operas then were any shorter than they are now.  As for me, I haven't been able to enjoy the second (or third) act of any opera since I became handicapped because my brain is on my bladder.

Lydia Mendelssohn Theater, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor

The Lydia Mendelssohn Theater, located in the League Building on the University of Michigan campus at 911 North University, is the gold standard for handicapped accessible theaters in my experience.  There is easy elevator access to the second floor entrance and not a single stair.  In addition, there are two multi-stall bathrooms near the entrance and a separate dedicated handicapped restroom, with toilet and sink in one small bathroom. What makes it even more impressive is that the building was constructed in 1929, demonstrating that it is possible to update an old building to be accessible without sacrificing character.

One small negative:  of the three entrances to the building, only the south entrance, on North University, is wheelchair accessible, while most of the available parking is closer to the north entrance. But that's a minor quibble in light of the ease of movement once you get inside.